There’s only one function in this set (besides opening doors and windows and simple things like that), but it’s a very fun one. I have to call out the bearskin rug in the attic especially. The detail doesn’t stop with the outside either there are three fully-furnished interiors. It’s also surprisingly sturdy, and although the carrying points are limited since you have to be careful not to lift the second story off by mistake, it’s easy to transport once you find a good spot to hold it. The Medieval Blacksmith is impressively ready for 360 viewing. Oh, it is from Ninjago! What do you know… Maybe he is coming to the blacksmith to get the right side fixed. The older knight’s shoulder armor doesn’t look very medieval – in fact, it looks like it’s from Ninjago. The set brings back the Black Falcon knights two of them are coming to buy armor or get repairs. There are some definite similarities like the half-timber style second story and the roof with an angle in the middle, but the LEGO designers were able to make the set brighter and less cluttered – fortunately without destroying its realistic look! An alternative was to tap a thread on one of the bolted parts and dispense with the nut.Medieval lovers rejoice – the #21325 LEGO Ideas Medieval Blacksmith set is a slice of medieval life brought to the bricks with loads of realistic detail! This blacksmith’s workshop was originally designed by LEGO fan Clemens Fiedler, but the final product has undergone a lot of revision. Bolted joints are undesirable if the bolt is secured with a nut. Screwing and bolting were used in the 19th century. Such a joint was used on some early andirons. There were various ways of pinning pieces of iron together the type most frequently used resembled a mortise and tenon joint, with the tenon going completely through the mortise and held in place with a tapered wedge or pin of iron. Collaring was done by wrapping a band of iron around two pieces to join them together scrolls were frequently fastened to bars, or to each other, by this plan. When rivets with round heads were used, the portion hammered over, or riveted, was the same size and shape as the original head. When a countersunk-head was used, the head and the riveted end were flush with the surface of the iron, making them difficult to detect if the ironwork were heavily painted. Riveting used rivets with round or countersunk heads. Various methods were used by blacksmiths to join pieces of iron: riveting, collaring, pinning, screwing, and bolting. Its use, like the other techniques described, does not guarantee great age, but it does indicate that it was hand-wrought. At times, the enlarged portion was utilized to form part of the design of an object. Such holes usually have a burr on the bottom side, and the bar was always wider at the hole than at any other part. The bar was reheated the third time and the hole placed over an opening in the anvil, where it was stretched to the desired diameter with larger punches. The punch was pulled out of the bar, the bar reheated, and punched from the opposite side until there was a small hole through the bar. Then, after reheating, a small punch was forced through the hot part of the bar with a hammer, until the punch was stopped by the face of the anvil. The first operation was to heat the bar and slightly increase its width by upsetting. It was the only method known by which a hole one inch in diameter could be made in a bar one inch wide. Punching was quite simple, but very important for decorative purposes and for joining pieces of iron.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |